Wednesday, September 12, 2018
Winter is coming, and changes to the weather will most definitely affect your eyelashes, so here's what you can do to be prepared. Don’t get caught off guard by the sudden dips in temperature, in the same way, lash artists get caught by the high temperatures of summer. So read on if you want to know how to keep control of your eyelash adhesive and maximise retention.
Eyelash Adhesive has one main ingredient, it is the same main ingredient in ALL lash adhesives, Cyanoacrylate. To make Cyanoacrylate set/go off/cure, you need moisture, when temperatures and humidities change, so does the behaviour of our adhesive. The higher the humidity means more moisture in the air and lower humidity means the air will be drier.
Eyelash natural shed cycle
Twice a year, Autumn and Spring, our bodies react to the changing seasons. Our bodies decide it’s time to shed our hair (including our eyelashes) faster than usual to adjust to the temperature change and/or lack of sun. Unfortunately, this means that your lashes may fall out more quickly than usual, resulting in your eyelash extensions not lasting as long as they usually would and the need for a shorter time between your infills. Don’t worry though, this will only last for one or two lash cycles, and you and your clients will be back to normal before you know it! My advice is to explain this to your clients before each appointment to manage their expectations and also provide a reason for infills to be booked sooner than they are used to.
When we talk about Humidity in lash terms, we actually mean “Relative Humidity”. The definition of Relative Humidity: The amount of water vapour present in the air represented as a percentage of the amount needed for saturation at the same temperature. In simple terms, how full the atmosphere is of moisture. Did you know that hot air can hold more water vapour/moisture than cold air? This is why it’s likely that when your temperature lowers, the relative humidity % increases.
Now that I’ve briefly explained Relative Humidity, here’s how it affects lash adhesive…
Too low in relative humidity will slow everything down and your adhesives will take longer to cure which can also lead to sensitisation as the vapours are looking for moisture and are naturally attracted to the dampness around the eyes and nose. Essentially, you are more likely to have reaction-like symptoms in low humidity. To increase humidity, you can either get a humidifier or even boil a kettle. Anything that adds moisture to the air will help.
If humidity is too high, it can cause shock polymerisation of the adhesive. This ‘shock’ polymerisation can lead to a shrinking process of the adhesive layer and weaker bonds. Basically, poor retention. To lower humidity, you can either use a dehumidifier, air conditioning or increase ventilation in your room.
The ideal RH for life, in general, is 40-60%. Any higher or lower means better conditions for bacteria and nasty stuff to grow. This goes the same for lashing and your own comfort.
The fact that Summer has gone is sad enough but don’t let the cold temperatures affect your work! Adhesive cures at their best speed between 20-24°c (may vary between brands) so any lower and your adhesive will set slower than you’d expect. The simplest workaround is to turn up your central heating. Make sure your room is up to temperature before the first client arrives so that your adhesive has time to settle.
The adhesive is the reason for poor retention 80% of the time and all of those times are usually down to user error and nothing to do with the resin itself. If you can get your environmental conditions correct, then your glue will work as usual. Most importantly SHAKE YOUR ADHESIVE VIGOROUSLY BEFORE USE!
Another factor is how you store your lash adhesive in colder temperatures. As explained above, an adhesive is very fussy and works best in 20-24°c heat and 40-60% RH, even when you store it. Avoid leaving it in your car overnight, in a conservatory or in direct sunlight. Store your glue in an airtight container, away from sunlight and at room temperature.
It's that simple, If you want to sail through Autumn/ Winter without retention issues, then you must do the discussed following three things:
- Control your environment
- Store your adhesive correctly
- Educate your client
If you found this interesting or want some help with your lash business, message me on Facebook, Instagram or through my website eyelovelashes.uk and I’d be happy to give some advice and guidance. Also, don't forget to share on your social media to spread the word and keep everyone lashing!
You can buy my favourite tried and tested No.1 Extreme Eyelash Extension Adhesive and Eyelashes from my Online Store.
Thanks for reading. Megan Thomas, Eye Love Lashes